Predicting the breaking onset of surface water waves
Why do ocean waves break? Understanding this important and obvious property of the ocean surface has been elusive for decades. This paper investigates causes which lead deep-water two-dimensional initially monochromatic waves to break. Individual wave steepness is found to be the single parameter which determines whether the wave will break immediately, never break or take a finite number of wave lengths to break. The breaking will occur once the wave reaches the Stokes limiting steepness. The...[Show more]
|Collections||ANU Research Publications|
|Source:||Geophysical Research Letters 34.7 (2007): L07605/1-6|
|Babanin_Predicting2007.pdf||291.17 kB||Adobe PDF|
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