Turner, John (Stewart); Turner, Ian L.
Previous theoretical and laboratory studies of spilling breakers on a beach are described and discussed, paying particular attention to models that emphasize the importance of air bubbles in the spill. At first such a spill forms at a sharp crest, and accelerates down the front of the wave as it propagates towards the shore. Then the crest becomes more rounded and this allows part of the aerated water to flow backwards over or under the crest, leaving a foam patch behind. Laboratory experiments...[Show more]
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