Babanin, Alexander V; Chalikov, Dmitry; Young, Ian; Savelyev, Ivan
The paper extends a pilot study into a detailed investigation of properties of breaking waves and processes responsible for breaking. Simulations of evolution of steep to very steep waves to the point of breaking are undertaken by means of the fully nonlinear Chalikov-Sheinin model. Particular attention is paid to evolution of nonlinear wave properties, such as steepness, skewness and asymmetry, in the physical, rather than Fourier space, and to their interplay leading to the onset of breaking....[Show more]
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